SURVEY IN UMBRIA BEFORE TOUR SEASON-CASTELBUONO WINERY

Tenuta Castelbuono and the Arnaldo Pomodoro’s Carapace The Carapace is the result of the Lunelli family’s dream of building a winery that is also a treasure chest for wine. From the Lunellis’ long-standing friendship with Arnaldo Pomodoro and their previous collaboration (which had led the great artist to create “Centenarium”, the sculpture that celebrates a century of history of the Ferrari winery) sprang the idea of suggesting that he – whose sculptures adorn important sites all over the world – should design the winery. Pomodoro enthusiastically accepted the challenge of creating a work that called into question the dividing lines between sculpture and architecture and which forged a dialogue both with the outside – the landscape in which it would be inserted – and with what would be inside: with the wine for whose production it had to be strictly functional. The Carapace stems from his careful study of the site. After an initial survey, Arnaldo Pomodoro had already dreamt up the project. “The landscape”, he recounts, “reminded me of the Montefeltro region where I was born, the one that one finds in lots of paintings by Piero della Francesca. My work, therefore, didn’t have to contrast with the gentleness of the hills on which the vineyards lie; indeed, it had to perfectly integrated with the environment. I had the idea of a shape that was reminiscent of a tortoise, a symbol of stability and longevity which, with its shell, represents the union between the land and the sky”. The result is an absolutely unique work of art: the first sculpture in the world in which it is possible to live and work; a place in which art and nature, sculpture and wine intermingle, thus highlighting the exceptional nature both of the container and its contents. Entering the “Carapace” means penetrating into one of Pomodoro’s sculptures, and one is aware right away of his artistic alphabet, which is immediately recognizable in the internal vault. It is a winery that offers great emotions, as indeed was the case for its designer, Arnaldo Pomodoro. He himself describes the fact: “For the first time in my life I felt the excitement of being able to walk, talk and drink inside one of my own works”.

The pretty stone hill town of Deruta lies in the central heart of Umbria, between Rome and Florence. At first glance it looks like any other medieval town dotting the countryside. But when you enter through the ancient gates you will see that this hamlet is distinct: its sole industry is ceramics. There are nearly two hundred workshops and stores, along with a school for Ceramic Arts and a Ceramics Museum, dedicated to Deruta's thriving artistic tradition. The particular type of ceramic-ware found throughout Italy and popularized in Deruta is said to have originated from the Spanish island of Majorca and imported to Italy by traveling merchants. It became known as Majolica. The Moorish design influences are retained even today in many traditional patterns. Deruta's rise as an artisan town was due in part to its location on the Tiber, where there are natural clay deposits. During the Renaissance, Deruta flourished and became Italy's principle center for Majolica. Designs that were popularized during that period are still being produced today, along with each workshop's own contemporary signature designs. All of the patterns are brilliantly colored, highly decorative, hand-painted masterpieces. The origins of Deruta remain partly obscure. It was a strategic point between Perugia and Todi, as witnessed by the fortified castle. In the thirteenth century, Deruta had its own constitution. In the second half of 1400s, many of the inhabitants of the town were killed by plague. During the Salt War (1540), Deruta, which had aligned itself against the Pope, suffered sacks and devastation. When the Papal States subdued Perugia, Deruta also enjoyed a long period of peace. During this period the manufacture of ceramics saw its peak. Enter the old town of Deruta through Porta San Michele and you'll immediately see evidence of old furnaces. The sober Romanesque-Gothic church of Sant'Arcangelo overlooks Piazza Biordo Michelotti. Opposite the piazza is the polygonal fountain, dating from 1848. Piazza dei Consoli, where the Palazzetto Municipale is located, dates back to 1300, and now houses various archeological finds from the Neolithic and Etruscan times. The palace also houses the Art Gallery and the Museum of Ceramics, with an important collection of paintings from the churches of San Francesco, Sant'Antonio, and the hospital of San Giacomo. There are paintings by artistis like Alunno, Baciccio, Stendardo, Amorosi, Fiorenzo di Lorenzo and Guido Reni. The Museum also offers magnificent ceramic works dating between through the centuries. Opposite the Town Hall is the Gothic church of San Francesco with interesting interiors. Close to the church is the former Franciscan convent with an ancient cloister. Down the narrow Via Mastro Giorgio is the church of Sant'Antonio, which preserves significant frescoes by Bartolomeo and Gian Battista Caporali. At the Piazza Cavour is the little church of Madonna del Divino Amore, today known as the Madonna of Cerasa. Along the Via Tiberina you’ll come across the little church of Madonna delle Piagge built in 1601, whose facade is adorned with beautiful majolica tiles. Near this church is visitable an interesting museum of ceramics.

Situated in the Umbria region, on a hill overlooking the Tevere river valley, Deruta was probably built upon Roman foundations. It’s name signifies reminds of the “ruin” of this strategic site caused by the Gothic War in the 6th century. The excellent quality of the local clay encouraged the production of Deruta pottery since the early Middle Age, but it reached its artistic climax in the 15th and the early 16th century. The experience of long lasting peace corresponded with the highest splendor in Deruta majolica production and with its commercial expansion. Favorable geographical and political conditions concentrated in Deruta a wide variety of technical and artistic experiences which combined into masterpieces of unique creativity and quality. Worth mentioning are the figurative decorations on Deruta ceramics, the usage of new colors (blue, yellow and orange), and the lusterware, rich in golden, iridescent effects thanks to special glazes and a third firing. In the same period the shapes also evolved, losing their functional qualities to become purely ornamental. Ceramics and painting were considered equivalent in term of artistic and decorative standing and “piatti da pompa” (celebration plates), “coppe amatorie” (love standing bowls) and apothecary jars were common gifts at noble wedding and political meetings and their collection was a very sought for symbols of richness and power. At the time fifty-two kilns were working inside the town walls and Deruta potters had set up their own corporation and wrote their own statute in order to protect their products. Deruta ceramics enjoyed 300 years of undisputed fame, always offering original contributions to the evolution of artistic tastes. At the beginning of the XXth century a huge work of research and training has encouraged the revival of the Deruta pottery artistic tradition. Since then a lot of artists have found the right conditions to express their creativity. Nowadays Deruta is a charming little town, rich in ancient churches and buildings. It owns an Internationally renowned Museum of Ceramics, the ideal place to learn the evolution of Deruta ceramics shapes, patterns and techniques. The production of pottery is still the main economic activity, with more than 200 laboratories and factories producing Deruta dinnerware and decorative pottery in a large variety of traditional designs - such as Raffaellesco, Ricco Deruta, Arabesco , Geometrics - and more modern patterns.

Deruta ceramics are a milestone in the history of Italian pottery and probably the most popular among traditional Italian ceramics. They gained worldwide fame during the Renaissance thanks to their creative and qualitative excellence. Noblemen and rich merchants were crazy about Deruta pottery, taking pride in collecting it just like art Museums have been doing in the following centuries. The city’s economy is still very much based on pottery making. Great artist and craftsmen have their workshops in Deruta and offer a wide range of traditional and modern ceramics.

The majolica tradition in Deruta dates back to 1200, making Deruta one of the epicenters of majolica production in the world.

Grazia Deruta is pottery producer in Deruta, Italy, the family business with the tradition from 1500. In the factory building is the Grazia Museum founded in 2001 and presenting 690 ceramic works, the ancient origins and the development of the Grazia factory

Ubaldo and Grazia run the place

TORGIANO-Time for lunch

Located south of Perugia, Torgiano is a sleepy town with medieval walls and an impressive defensive tower located on a hill overlooking the Chiascio and Tiber rivers. It is located approximately 650 feet above sea level and issurrounded by tobacco fields and vineyards. Torgianois home to Italy’s most important wine museum, Museo del Vino Torgiano, founded by the Lungarotti family in 1974.

WINE MUSEUM TORGIANO

Conceived and created by Giorgio Lungarotti and his wife Maria Grazia, the Wine Museum was opened to the public in 1974 and is now managed by the Lungarotti Foundation. It is located in Torgiano in the pars agricola of the monumental Graziani-Baglioni Maison, a 17th century noble summer residence. The museum covers twenty rooms and displays more than 2800 pieces, organized according to modern museological criteria and rigorous scientific protocol. In addition to the Wine Museum, Lungarotti Foundation also owns the Olive and Oil Museum, also in Torgiano.

The Cantico Wine Route or 'Strada dei Vini del Cantico' is a spectacular itinerary taking the traveller past medieval hamlets, castles, abbeys, and churches in central Umbria. It could be described as a spiritual journey as the route was inspired by Saint Francis of Assisi following his ode to nature 'Cantico delle Creature' written in 1224. The Canticle Wine Route: more than just wine The Cantico Wine Route aims to promote the communication and development of an area characterised by its renowned wine production: one DOCG, the Torgiano Rosso Riserva, and five DOC, Assisi, Colli Perugini, Torgiano, Todi and Colli Martani. And that’s not all. The initiatives and projects are all created with the aim of attracting people to the ancient villages, cities, castles and churches through a route that allows visitors to explore the identity and soul of the area also through its events, re-enactments and fêtes. In addition to the wines, therefore, they showcase the fine traditional local products, such as the Cannara onion, Umbrian DOP oil, IGP White Veal from the Central Apennines, saffron, the Bettona pea, truffle and Umbrian sheep cheese of Subasio. All of this in combination with art, culture, monuments and landscape to enjoy a full-immersion in the places, traditions, stories and precious knowledge of the trades, rhythms and seasons of a land that shares a long and significant farming history.

Wine tasting at Lungarotti in Torgiano